Exclusive birding experience of Uttarakhand

Duration: 3 Days
Location: Pangot & Sattal
Visit Time : April

Pangot and Sattal are located in Nainital district of Uttarakhand. Entire Kumaon is a heaven of bird watchers, but still, there are some places that are famous for birdwatching.

 

BNHS Nature Reserve

Pangot

Pangot is located about 13 kilometers from Nainital, which is a popular hill station also. The main attraction of Pangot is its birds. Around 580 bird species have been recorded in this area. One can see a variety of colorful Himalayan species here. Apart from other , Cheer Pheasant, Koklass Pheasant, and Kalij Pheasant are the three main magnets that attract most of the bird lovers in this area.

Sattal

Sattal is a well-known birding area of Kumaon. It has beautiful and biodiversity-rich forests. Sattal or Sat Tal (“seven lakes”) is an interconnected group of seven freshwater lakes situated in the Lower Himalayan Range near Bhimtal.

BNHS Nature Reserve
Birding trails
BNHS Conservation Education Center conducted field camp at Pangot and Sattal, Uttarakhand in late April 2019 for Ornithology and Leadership and Biodiversity courses participants under the field guide of Mr. Hari Om and BNHS experts.

 

Pangot –Day 1:

We waited near old Delhi station and our train Ranikhet express came 45 minutes late. Most of the participants bored the same train. It was an overnight train journey. We reached at kathgodam station at 5.05 am. We started birding right after we got down from the train.
It was one of the pleasant looking stations of India. Smaller hills started its’ elevation just beside the platform. The weather was clear and cold gentle breeze was wrapping us in a soothing feeling. We spotted Himalayan Bulbul, Red-vented bulbul, Oriental magpie robin, Indian white eye etc. around the station area.

Indian white eye
Indian white eye

Our hotel was in Pangot. We reached there via Kilbury forest. It was a nice jungle trail. A stream was running in between the forest and the sound of water appeared to be very nice to my ear. I sat in front of the stream beneath the tree shade. Bird activity was not so good at that time and I wanted to spend some time with myself beside the stream calmly for mental relaxation. My team move forward and got Plumbous water redstart male and female.

 Kilbury forest trail
Kilbury forest trail

Our hotel in Pangot was comfortable and cozy. The view from the balcony was awesome.

Hotel at Pangot
Hotel at Pangot
Balcony
Hotel at Pangot
View from balcony
Hotel at Pangot
Room interior

I feel the entire place a bit crowded. Bird activity near the hotel was not very satisfactory still we spotted many Red-rumped swallows and Barn swallows flying and making nests, engaged in foraging here and there.

Barn swallow nest
Barn swallow nest
Red-rumped swallow
Red-rumped swallow

We spotted one male and female Grey bushchat carrying insects for their chicks near our hotel. A grey backed shrike was also present there throughout our 4 days hotel stay. We spotted a Grey Nightjar in the early morning and late night on the electric pole.

Grey bushchat male
Grey bushchat male

We heard the call of Hill Partridge in different places of Pangot and it was awesome. Listening to that call in a silent forest trail is so very blissful.
After morning session birding we came back to hotel and after lunch and some rest we went out again on 2.30 pm. around for evening session birding.

 Streaked laughingthrush
Streaked laughingthrush

Evening session in Gugurkan trail was very enriching. The whole team walked for a long time and identified so many species including Rufous-bellied woodpecker, Streaked Laughingthrush, Red-billed blue magpie etc. from a shorter distance.

 Rufous-bellied woodpecker female
Rufous-bellied woodpecker female

After returning to the hotel we sat with the entire team and made a list of the observed species. We discussed their behavior and identification pointers.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Discussion on bird’s checklist

Nights were moderately cold enough in Pangot. If the sky is clear, one can have a clear view of the famous star constellations.

Pangot –Day 2:

Kunja Trail
Kunja Trail

Second-day birding started from the early morning. We spotted Kalij pheasant in different places. It was pretty hard to photograph this shy bird.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip Ultramarine flycatcher male
Ultramarine flycatcher male

After Kunja trail we went to an open hilly area from where Cheer pheasants are easy to spot. We searched the entire hills of the opposite direction with our binoculars, zoom lenses and spotting scopes but couldn’t find it.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Cheer point

Suddenly one yelled “Cheer dikh gaya”!!! We immediately jumped again with our equipment and tried to spot again. It was really hard to spot the well-camouflaged bird in their habitat. I almost lost all my hope of spotting it and thought to visit my eye specialist for a check-up, then suddenly saw through the camera that the male one was hiding itself behind the bushes and its’ long tail was coming out from the dry leaves of the bush.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip Himalayan griffon vultures
Himalayan griffon vultures

We watched many Griffon vultures flying over the entire place. Some are coming too closer that taking a picture in zoom lens couldn’t be possible.
We got Upland pipit also in the same place. This pipit was flying over our head with a certain musical call and was coming back to the same rock from where it started flying.

Upland Pipit
Upland Pipit

Byasi was another jungle trail where we found many species like Koklass pheasant, Rufous sibia, Chestnut-crowned laughingthrush etc.

Bagar road
Bagar road

In the evening we did birding at Bagar road throughout the jungle path. The route was not plain and the path was a bit like trek route. We got Bonelli’s eagle, Blue-capped rockthrush, Grey bushchat, Blue whistling thrush, Jungle babbler, Jungle myna etc.

 Bonelli's eagle
Bonelli’s eagle

Pangot – Day 3

The distance between Pangot to sattal was 39.0 km which took 1 hr. 50 minutes by car. The entire day was dedicated to Sattal birding. We went to Sattal by car.

 Himalaya viewpoint
Himalaya viewpoint

We stopped near Himalaya viewpoint and Nainital viewpoint to take some photos of the scenic beauty.

 Nainital viewpoint
Nainital viewpoint

We walked on Sattal road towards Garur tal for birding. It was a pleasant walk. Road was very good and the forest habitat was so rich. Bird activity was quite satisfactory.

 Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip Garur tal
Garur tal

For example if I focused on a Rusty-cheeked scimitar babbler then I would definitely miss the Mountain bulbul singing in the other side of the way. If I tried to search for the same bulbul then I would get a Striated prinia sitting on the top perch of a firework like tree. Got some distant shots of Kalij pheasants in this route.

Striated prinia
Striated prinia
 Kalij pheasant
Kalij pheasant

We got Grey bellied cuckoo also which was not commonly seen in that place.

 Grey bellied cuckoo
Grey bellied cuckoo

We observed a flock of four-five Slaty headed parakeets swinging from one branch o another of some flowering trees and feed themselves by nectar.

 Slaty headed parakeet
Slaty headed parakeet

Before entering Garur tal birding area we finished our packed breakfast midway.

Breakfast time

The entire road beside the Garur tal was covered by big canopied trees. We got many species including Tickell’s Thrush, Orange headed thrush, White throated laughing thrush etc.

Garur tal trail
Garur tal trail

Beside Garur tal we waited near a small waterbody for a long time to observe bird activity but didn’t get much because the place became too hot to attract birds to drink water or bathing.

Hide near waterbody
Hide near waterbody
 Red-billed leiothrix
Red-billed leiothrix
Stopped in this hotel for lunch
Stopped in this hotel for lunch

After having lunch in a hotel, we went to Chafi where we waited for brown dipper and Indian blue robin. The habitat was just a treat to eyes and a perfect place of mental relaxation.

Chafi trail
Chafi trail
River near chafi
River near chafi

Day 4

Green tailed sunbird
Green tailed sunbird

In the last day of the trip we did birding at the almost same trails which we covered in the 2nd day. Then after having breakfast, we checked out from the hotel and reached Kathgodam station at 3.00 pm. We did some en-route birding while coming back to the station. We stopped in a roadside restaurant to have lunch. We waited there for some birds. Got Blue whistling thrush, Red-billed leiothrix, Russet Sparrow and Red billed blue magpie etc. After lunch we were busy with birds, checking whatsapp and facebook after a long time, clicking photos of birds, getting selfies; We didn’t notice that in a closer hill trees were getting burnt due to forest fire.

Forest fire
Forest fire

Suddenly local people started screaming and we immediately decided to leave the place safely, because road might get blocked due to the falling of the trees.
We got our train from Kathgodam station and reached Kolkata the next day, by the flight from Delhi.

 Asian barred owlet
Asian barred owlet

Full List of birds we spotted during the Pangot and Sattal trip

 Sattal Pangot Bird Cheklist Scientific Name 
1 Common Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola
2 Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus
3 Cheer Pheasant Catreus wallichii
4 Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos
5 Koklass Pheasant Pucrasia macrolopha
6 Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus
7 Rock Dove Columba livia
8 Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis
9  Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
10 Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis
11 Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenurus
12 Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
13  Yellow-footed Green-pigeon  Treron p. phoenicopterus
14  Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus
15  Little Swift Apus affinis
16  Large Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides
17 Common Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx varius
18  Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus
19 Himalayan Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus [saturatus]
20 Grey-bellied Cuckoo  Cacomantis passerinus
21 Griffon Vulture Gyps Fulvus
22 Himalayan Vulture Gyps himalayensis
23 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela
24  Mountain Hawk Eagle  Nisaetus nipalensis
25 Changeable Hawk Eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus
26  Shikra Accipiter badius
27  Black Kite  Milvus migrans
28 Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhyncus
29 Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus
30 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
31 Brown Wood-Owl Strix leptogrammica
32 Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides
33 Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei
34 Common Hoopoe Upupa epops [ceylonenesis]
35  Speckled Piculet  Picumnus innominatus
36 Greater Yellow-naped Woodpecker Chrysophlegma flavinucha
37  Lesser Yellow-naped Woodpecker  Chrysophlegma chlorolophus
38 Streak-throated Woodpecker  Picus xanthopygaeus
39 Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus
40 Brown-fronted Woodpecker Dendrocopos auriceps
41  Himalayan Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos himalayensis
42  Fulvous-breasted Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos macei
43 Rufous-bellied Woodpecker  Dendrocopos hyperythrus
44 Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes guttacristatus
45  Great Barbet Psilopogon virens
46 Blue-throated Barbet  Megalaima asiatica
47 Himalayan Pied Kingfisher Ceryle lugubris
48 White-throated Kingfisher  Halcyon smyrnensis
49  Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
50 Himalayan/Slaty-headed Parakeet Psittacula himalayana
51 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala
52 Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria
53  Rose-ringed Parakeet  Psittacula krameri
54 Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus
55  Scarlet Minivet  Pericrocotus speciosus
56  Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii
57 Black Drongo  Dicrurus macrocercus
58 Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
59  Grey-backed Shrike  Lanius tephronotus
60  Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach
61 Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae
62 Red-billed Blue Magpie  Urocissa erythroryncha
63 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
64  Black-headed Jay Garrulus lanceolatus
65  Large-billed Crow  Corvus macrorhynchos
66 Fire-breasted Flowerpecker  Dicaeum ignipectus
67 Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile
68 Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis
69  Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja
70  Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus
71 Black throated/breasted Sunbird Aethopyga saturata
72 House Sparrow Passer domesticus
73 Russet Sparrow  Passer cinnamomeus
74 Yellow-throated Sparrow Petronia xanthocollis
75 Upland Pipit Anthus sylvanus
76 Grey Wagtail  Motacilla cinerea
77  Common Rosefinch  Erythrina erythrina
78 Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Chloris spinoides
79 Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
80  Spot-winged Tit Periparus melanolophus
81  Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus
82 Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus
83 Black-lored Yellow Tit Parus xanthogenys
84 Yellow-borwed Tit Sylviparus modestus
85  Black-throated Tit  Aegithalos concinnus
86 Striated Prinia Prinia crinigera
87 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis
88 Grey-breasted Prinia  Prinia hodgsonii
89 Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalense
90 Red-rumped Swallow  Cecropis daurica
91  Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
92 Eurasian Crag-martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
93  Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus
94 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
95 Mountain Bulbul  Ixos mcclellandii
96 Himalayan Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus
97  Himalayan Bulbul  Pycnonotus leucogenis
98  Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala
99 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius
100  Tickell’s Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus affinis
101  Greenish Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides
102  Grey-hooded Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos
103  Western Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus occipitalis
104 Common/Siberian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus [collybita] tristis
105  Plaine Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus neglectus
106  Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata
107 Black-chinned Babbler  Stachyris pyrrhops
108 Orange-bellied Leafbird  Chloropsis hardwickii
109  Lesser Whitethroat Curruca curruca
110 Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis
111  Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta
112  Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus
113 113 Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler  Erythrogenys erythrogenys
114 114 Striated Laughingthrush Grammatoptila striata
115  White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis
116  Streaked Laughingthrush  Trochalopteron lineatum
117  Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush  Trochalopteron erythrocephalum
118  Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrata
119 Blue-winged Minla Siva cyanouroptera
120  Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea
121 Rufous chinned Laughingthrush  Ianthocincla rufogularis
122  Bar-tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayana
123  Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch  Sitta castanea
124  White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis
125  Grey-headed Starling  Sturnia malabarica
126  Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
127 Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus
128  Bank Myna  Acridotheres ginginianus
129  Spot-winged Satarling Saroglossa spiloptera
130 Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis
131  Indian Pond-heron Ardeola grayii
132  Dark-sided Flycather Muscicapa sibirica
133  Ultramarine Flycatcher  Ficedula superciliaris
134  Rufous-bellied Niltava  Niltava sundara
135  Asian Verditer Flycatcher  Eumyias thalassinus
136  Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus
137  Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus
138 Blue Whistling-Thrush Myophonus caeruleus
139 Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush  Monticola rufiventris
140 Blue-capped Rock-Thrush Monticola cinclorhyncha
141  Blue Rock-Thrush  Monticola solitarius
142  Blue-capped Redstart Adelura coeruleocephala
143 Plumbeous Water-Redstart Phoenicurus fuliginosus
144 Common Stonechat  Saxicola torquatus
145 Grey Bush Chat Saxicola ferreus
146  Blue-throated Flycatcher  Cyornis rubeculoides
147  Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata
148 Plain-backed Thrush  Zoothera mollissima
149  Small-billed Scaly-Thrush Zoothera dauma
150 Tickell’s Thrush Turdus unicolor
151  Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul
152 White-throated/bellied Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta
153  White-browed Shrike-babbler Pteruthius aeralatus annamensis
154 Plain Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus neglectus
155 Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus
156 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis
157  Asian Koel  Eudynamys scolopaceus
158  Red-wattled Lapwing  Vanellus indicus
159 Asian Paradise Flycatcher  Terpsiphone paradisi
160 Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii
161  Indian Blue Robin Luscinia brunnea
162  Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina
163  Little Green Bee-eater Merops orient

Why choose Kumaon as a birding destination

Black headed jay

1) It is a fabulous place where one can get most of the lifers that are endemic to Uttarakhand.

2) Weather is never too hot, and it means birding span is not limited to sessions only. One can do the birding for the whole day without getting fatigued.

In search of Cheer pheasant

3) Bird activity is good throughout the day.

4) Habitat and biodiversity were very good. The whole area is covered by small forest patches where one can get plenty of birds.

5) Himalayan birds are very colorful and spotting them in cluttered bushes, identifying them by their melodious call are a whole new experience. It can give a typical mental peace which will drain out the exhaustion of monotonous daily life.

Best birding experience of the Pangot and Sattal Tour

1) Call of Hill-partridge was something that snatched my mind from this world to another. I didn’t saw the bird but it was calling from a nearer cluttered bush down the hilly slopes. The call hypnotized me for a few minutes. It reminded me of the melodious flute sound of the Pied Piper of Hamelin.

2) On our way back to Kathgodam, our guide stopped the car for taking good perched photographs of Great barbet. We ran and took photographs, The barbet was calling in a shrill voice. Suddenly another barbet came and they start mating. I never saw Himalayan barbet’s copulation. It was for a few seconds event. While mating on the ground or tree, the male perches, and balances on top of the female, who moves her tail feathers to the side to expose her cloaca to facilitate copulation.

Coming to the act of mating, or to be more precise, copulation (union of the sex organs of the mating pair), most male birds, unlike mammals, do not have a penis. Copulation occurs via the cloaca (anal opening) of both the
birds, which also serves as the common organ for the expulsion of urinary and digestive wastes. In the absence of a separate urinary organ for birds (unlike in mammals), sperms of the male are ejected through the opening of the cloaca into the cloaca of the female, from where they travel up the oviduct to eventually fertilize eggs. The cloaca of both the birds swell and protrude outside their bodies during copulation.

3) On the same day, we stopped in a place for Common green magpie. We came out of the car and entered the jungle. We didn’t get that particular bird but observed the breeding behavior of White-throated laughingthrush. Two male and female birds were engaged in allopreening. Allopreening, or mutual preening, helps to diffuse aggression and establish close contact between mates. The birds may lightly preen one another, usually restricted to the feathers of the head and neck which the bird itself cannot reach. Other than cementing pair bonding, allopreening helps to remove lice and plumage maintenance. The birds sit with their bodies touching each other or lean on one another to show that they do not
intend to harm their partner.
After that, the male bird came to feed the female bird. This courtship feeding is also an interesting breeding behavior which we observed on the same day. This offering food to the female by the male is a common part of courtship in many bird species. Courtship feeding prior to mating may enable females to assess a male‘s suitability as a mate, and for the male, it could act as an assurance of fidelity from its partner.

Magic of months

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Slaty headed parakeet nest

1) March and April are those two months when one can get birds doing breeding or nesting. We have seen many nesting birds also. We got Grey bushchat male and females carrying insects to feed their chicks. We got Himalayan bulbul and Streaked laughingthrush also that were carrying insects.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Himalayan bulbul

2) Himalayan great barbet mating and White throated laughingthrush allopreening and courtship behavior were recorded.

3) A male Striated laughingthrush was displaying his wings and plumages to attract the female. These behaviors won’t be present in other months.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Striated laughingthrush

4) The entire road was decorated with red, pink Rhododendron. It was a heavenly beauty all over. We watched some beautiful birds nectering themselves. Landscape shots were also very good.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Blast of colours
Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Rhododendron

5) In Sattal area we observed a Slaty headed parakeet nest in the hole of the tree and two male and female Scarlet minivet with brood patch. A brood patch is a patch of featherless skin that is visible on the underside of birds during the nesting season. This patch of skin is well supplied with blood vessels at the surface making it possible for the birds to transfer heat to their eggs when incubating.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Male Scarlet minivet with brood patch

6) This season had less chance of raining and ruining the birding. One can get a clear Himalayan peak view. Though we didn’t get a very clear picture because of the widespread fog in the upper Himalayas.

Pangot & Sattal Birding Trip
Cheer point