The journey into the Garhwal Himalayas begins as the plains of Haridwar slowly fade behind winding mountain roads, revealing the turquoise confluences of Devprayag and Rudraprayag beneath towering cliffs. Beyond Ukhimath and the quiet village trails of Makkumath, the landscape transforms into a dream of pine, deodar and blooming rhododendron forests, alive with the calls of Himalayan birds. Every morning carries the thrill of discovery — a dazzling Himalayan Monal flashing through the slopes near Tungnath, the distant whistle of Koklass Pheasant in the oak woods of Chopta, or a soaring Bearded Vulture drifting across the snow peaks of Chaukhamba and Kedarnath. The slow walks through alpine meadows, hidden forest patches of Sari and Kankragad, and the sacred ridge of Karthik Swami offer not just birding, but a deep immersion into Himalayan serenity. As the sun rises over snow-clad summits and evenings end with warm tea and shared sightings, the trip becomes more than a tour — it turns into a soulful journey through one of India’s most magical mountain wildernesses.
The Departure: Riding the Kumbha Express Our much-anticipated family journey began on March 19, 2026, as we boarded the Kumbha Express from Howrah station. Though the train was delayed by two hours and finally departed at 3:05 PM, our spirits were high. We passed the time eating home-cooked chicken and fried rice, reading, and playing chess. After a long but enjoyable 29-hour journey covering major stations like Lucknow and Varanasi, we finally reached the holy city of Haridwar.
Spiritual Haridwar and the Wilds of Rajaji Tiger Reserve In Haridwar, we checked into Hotel Dwarkesh on Jassaram Road. Rather than watching the Aarti at the crowded Har Ki Pauri, we experienced a deeply serene Ganga Aarti at the Anand Niwas ghat, where the reflection of fire and lights on the river created a magical atmosphere. We enjoyed hearty meals at the famous Chotiwala and Dada Boudi’s Hotel, and visited the Pashupatinath Mahadev temple, which fascinated us with its self-playing musical instruments during the Aarti.
The next morning, we set out before dawn to explore the Rajaji Tiger Reserve, a stunning forest stretching across the Shivalik foothills. Our morning safari in the Chilla range rewarded us with sightings of wild elephants, Pied Hornbills, and the vibrant Purple Sunbird. In the afternoon, we ventured into the Ranipur range. Although the elusive leopard remained hidden, we were incredibly lucky to witness a rare “lek display”—a fascinating mating ritual where multiple male peacocks gather to display their vibrant feathers and dance to attract females.
The Road to Makkumath: Rivers and Rhododendrons On March 22, we left Haridwar for Makkumath, an offbeat village in the Garhwal Himalayas. The drive was breathtaking as we witnessed two sacred confluences: Devprayag, where the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers meet to form the Ganga, and Rudraprayag, the meeting point of the Alaknanda and Mandakini. After a scenic lunch in Agastyamuni, we arrived at our homestay in Makkumath, the winter seat of Lord Tunganath. Here, we were warmly greeted by a remarkably calm black dog affectionately named ‘Kaluda’.
A Birdwatcher’s Paradise: Chopta and Beyond Makkumath and the surrounding areas are an absolute haven for birdwatchers. We spent our days exploring spots like Finch Point and Kakdagad on the banks of the Akashkamini river, spotting beautiful mid-altitude birds like the Black-throated Sunbird and Yuhinas.
Our true birding adventure peaked in Chopta, where the mountain paths were ablaze with pink and red rhododendron blooms. We were thrilled to spot the Himalayan Monal—often called the Danphe in Nepal—with the male showing off its spectacular, iridescent metallic plumage. Later, we embarked on a steep, challenging descent down a mountain slope to find the Koklass Pheasant. Known as one of the shyest birds in the Himalayas, its loud morning calls led us right to it, making the treacherous hike entirely worth it.
Touching the Skies: Tunganath and Kartikswami Treks No trip to this region is complete without trekking. We hiked a portion of the 3.5-kilometer trail toward the Tunganath Temple, one of the highest Shiva temples in the world, situated at about 3680 meters. Surrounded by snow and majestic views of the Chaukhamba peak, we watched male Kalij Pheasants fiercely fighting over territory. Since we had already paid our respects to Tunganathji at his winter seat in Makkumath, we enjoyed the snow and slowly made our way back down for some hot Maggi.
Our final trek took us to the Kartikswami Temple, perched on a dramatic mountain ridge at 3050 meters. We started our 3-kilometer hike from Kanakchauri village under cloudy skies. The temple is rooted in mythology; legend has it that after losing a race around the world to his brother Ganesha, a furious Lord Kartik surrendered his flesh and bones to his parents, which are said to still be preserved in this very temple. The 360-degree views of the Garhwal Himalayas from the top were simply indescribable. As a perfect parting gift, we spotted the rare Cheer Pheasant near the temple grounds.
Conclusion From the lively train chatter to the sacred rivers, dense jungles, and snow-capped peaks, this trip was a perfect symphony of nature and family bonding. The thrill of spotting rare Himalayan birds and the profound peace of the mountains have left an indelible mark on our hearts.
